Idea’s and Strategies of Flea Control (Pest Control Management)

It’s usually a hint that you need to implement a flea control management approach if you find your dog or cat biting...

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Flea control

It’s usually a hint that you need to implement a flea control management approach if you find your dog or cat biting and scratching excessively. An allergic reaction to a flea bite results in itching. Unfortunately, many individuals will wait until their dogs or cats get bitten before deciding to start a flea treatment program me.

Fleas can make your dog or cat’s life a living hell, as well as yours. Let’s face it: fleas are a cat and dog’s worst enemy. A single female flea can lay up to 200 eggs each day, with the eggs remaining dormant for up to a year. Meaning, if you don’t treat the root of the problem and only treat your pet, any flea control treatments you use on your pet will likely only postpone the inevitable: a continuing flea infestation inside and outside your home.

There are also some methods for getting rid of fleas that don’t require the use of flea control solutions. The top strategies flea control methods and treatments are listed below to help you get rid of that pesky flea infestation.

Flea Sprays

Sprays for fleas vary in effectiveness. The majority are made with alcohol, with some being more organic than others. The alcohol is used to kill adult and pre-adult stages as quickly as possible. Some flea sprays include an insect growth regulator, which kills flea eggs as well as fleas. Make certain to get one that includes this. When pets see you approaching with that bottle after a few applications, they flee.


Pennyroyal (very poisonous), clove, citronella, and eucalyptus oils are all used as herbal pesticides (diluted of course.) These can be added to shampoos or put to a flea collar made of fabric. When applied directly to the skin, they can be quite irritating. They should also not be applied directly to the coat because the animal will consume it when grooming itself. Flea control is generally disliked by pets, who only consent to it when they have learnt helplessness.

Flea Powder:

Flea powder is the product of flea control. Flea powder is safe to use every 3-4 days on dogs and cats older than 8 weeks, according to the manufacturers. When applied for the first time, the active ingredient (pyrethrins, the safest and most natural component) takes around 15 minutes to kill fleas. If not reapplied after 5-7 days, flea powder only acts as a residual, requiring up to 12 hours to kill the flea. Because this product lacks a growth regulator, it only kills adults.


Organophosphate-containing pour-on and spot-on products are also extremely hazardous. Organophosphate spot-on kills fleas only after they bite and drink the blood of the pet. When it comes to infants, these products are also harmful. Allow at least 24 hours after using these products before exposing a small kid to the pet. I’ve heard of parents discovering a dead infant the next day after pinning it on the family dog who slept with the youngster. Once every two weeks, they are administered. A good rule of thumb is “if a little is good, a lot is NOT always better.” Only take the dose that is written on the bottle. Before you drug the animal, make sure you know how much it weighs.

Flea Shampoo

After being rinsed off, flea shampoos offer little protection. They can provide temporary respite (a few hours in the case of a heavy infestation) and will kill the fleas on the animal during the bath. They are effective at removing flea filth from the skin, but they also dry up the skin, making them unsuitable for dogs with dry/flaky or oily/greasy skin. In these situations, it is preferable to select the appropriate medicated shampoo for your pet.

Bedding for Pets

Cedar chips are a fantastic bedding choice if your pet sleeps outside. Cedar and eucalyptus are natural flea repellents. Long-term management is useless if you don’t address where your pet sleeps. Many stores sell Cedar dust, but unless you want your dog trailing Cedar dust over your yard and house, stick with the chips.


Vacuuming is the most important step in getting rid of pests in your home after treatment. The vibration of the vacuum as it is dragged up is usually enough to kill them. When you’re finished with the bag, dispose of it or empty it and discard it. Vacuum carpets, couches, and chairs with cushions thoroughly. You don’t just want to get rid of the adults; you also want to get rid of the eggs.

These are the strategies of flea control.

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